Two islands sit across the mouth of Nanaimo harbour, a few hundred metres from downtown. One is a provincial park with no cars, no bears, and no cougars. The other is a residential community reached only by boat.
Both are a short passenger ferry from the middle of town, and between them they are the reason downtown Nanaimo feels the way it does. The harbour is enclosed rather than open, and there is always something to look at across the water.
Here is what each one is.
What is Saysutshun?
Saysutshun, also known as Newcastle Island, is a marine provincial park managed by the Snuneymuxw First Nation in partnership with the provincial government and the City of Nanaimo. The island was renamed to reflect the Snuneymuxw name, and the park is run with that history at the centre of the visitor experience.
The Snuneymuxw used the island for thousands of years, and there are middens and the sites of at least two Salish villages on it. The English name came later, from the coal: a Snuneymuxw man, Ki'et'sa'kun, told the newcomers about the coal seams here, and the Hudson's Bay Company named the island for Newcastle upon Tyne, the English coal town.
What you find now is sandstone cliffs and ledges around the shoreline, sunny beaches between them, and an interior of mature Douglas fir, Garry oak, arbutus, and big leaf maple. There is a network of trails, a campground near the dock, seasonal bike and kayak rentals, and guided walks led by Snuneymuxw guides that are the best thing on offer if the timing works.
How do you get to Saysutshun?
A passenger ferry runs from Maffeo Sutton Park in downtown Nanaimo, and the crossing takes about ten minutes. It is seasonal, so check the schedule before planning around it. You can also arrive by private boat, and there is a dock.
There are no cars on the island and no road access, which is the whole point of it. Dogs are welcome on the ferry for a small fee, on leash.
One accessibility note worth knowing in advance: the passenger boats are not ramp-equipped, so ferry access is limited, though paths and facilities near the dock are relatively level.
What is Protection Island?
A residential community, and an unusual one. Several hundred people live on Protection Island with no vehicle ferry and no bridge, so daily life runs on a small passenger boat to downtown. Residents use golf carts and small utility vehicles on the island's lanes.
The floating pub at the dock is the thing most visitors come for, and it is genuinely a pub on a barge. Tied up at the wharf, reached by the same small ferry, and worth doing once purely for the strangeness of it.
People do buy and live here, and it suits a specific kind of person. Everything arrives by boat, including groceries and building materials, and the last sailing of the evening is a serious constraint on your life. Those who love it love it completely.
Why the islands shape the city
The two islands close off the harbour, which is why the water in front of downtown is sheltered rather than open strait. That shelter is the reason the marinas are here, the reason paddling out of the middle of the city is straightforward, and part of the reason the seaplanes can operate off the harbour.
It also gives downtown an outlook. Rather than staring at open horizon, you look across at forested shoreline a few hundred metres away, with boats and float planes moving between. The views from town are largely views of these two islands.
If you want to be out on that water yourself, the paddling and boating here is mostly built around circling them.
Which parts of town look out at the islands
- Downtown and the old city. Closest to both ferries, and the harbourfront walkway looks straight across.
- Departure Bay. Looks across the north end of Saysutshun, with the ferry traffic in the foreground.
- The slopes above downtown. Elevation here means looking over the top of the islands to the strait and the mainland range behind.
To compare areas side by side, see the Nanaimo Neighbourhood Guide, or read about the core on our Central Nanaimo page.
Frequently asked questions
How do you get to Newcastle Island from Nanaimo?
A passenger ferry runs from Maffeo Sutton Park in downtown Nanaimo and the crossing takes about ten minutes. The service is seasonal, so check the schedule before planning around it. You can also arrive by private boat. There is no vehicle access and no bridge.
What is Saysutshun?
Saysutshun, also known as Newcastle Island, is a marine provincial park just off downtown Nanaimo, managed by the Snuneymuxw First Nation in partnership with the provincial government and the City of Nanaimo. It carries trails, beaches, sandstone shoreline, a campground, and guided walks led by Snuneymuxw guides.
Can you live on Protection Island?
Yes. Several hundred people do. There is no vehicle ferry and no bridge, so daily life runs on a small passenger boat to downtown Nanaimo, and residents use golf carts and small utility vehicles on the island's lanes. Everything arrives by boat, and the last evening sailing is a serious constraint.
Is there a pub on Protection Island?
Yes, a floating pub at the dock, tied up at the wharf and reached by the same small passenger ferry from downtown Nanaimo. It is one of the more unusual things in the area and worth doing once.
Are there cars on Newcastle Island?
No. Saysutshun has no road access and no vehicles, which is a large part of its appeal. There are also no bears or cougars on the island, so it is a relaxed place to walk. Dogs are welcome on the passenger ferry for a small fee and must be on leash.
Getting to know the area
The harbour and its islands are the thing most people remember from a first visit. The Moving to Nanaimo hub covers what living here is like across the board, the Nanaimo Neighbourhood Guide walks through the areas, and you can book a quick call with Travis or Kiel to talk it through.